How should I introduce my kitten to its new environment?
Kittens have a natural interest in exploring new places. At first, you should limit its investigation to a single room so it cannot get into any trouble. After a few days your kitten can explore the other areas of your home.
How should I introduce my new kitten to my other cat?
It is very common for other cats in your household to be hostile towards a new kitten at first. Your cat may already feel territorial or jealous, so it is important that they do not feel that they need to compete for resources or attention. To prevent this, each cat should have their own separate food bowl and litter box. It is generally recommended that you supply one litter box per cat plus one extra for the household.
During the first few days, let your cat sit outside the door of the room that the kitten is confined to. This will help them get used to each other’s scent. Consider bringing your cat into the room for a few short supervised visits, making sure you pay equal attention to them both.
Kittens need a lot of love and care as they grow and this extra attention may make your cat feel excluded. Paying the cat more attention than normal will help to ease them through this transition period and help them learn to accept the new kitten. This introductory period will usually last for one to two weeks and will result in one of three outcomes.
- Optimally, the cat and your new kitten will form a bond. Once they feel comfortable they will play together and groom each other. They may even cuddle up and sleep near each other. Forming a bond is a more likely outcome if the cats did not feel the need to compete for resources or attention during the introductory period.
- The existing cat will become more tolerant of the kitten and its hostility will cease. If they do not bond, the existing cat is likely to go on as normal and will simply ignore the kitten. This is more common if your cat is extremely independent or has been an only cat for a long period of time, and is likely to be permanent.
- Finally, hostility may remain between your cat and the new kitten. They may occasionally fight, and they are unlikely to enjoy spending time near each other. You may need to give each cat its own area in the house. This outcome is very unlikely to occur if the cats do not need to compete for resources or attention during the introductory period.
What type of play should I expect from a kitten?
Playtime helps kittens to develop strength and skills. Interactive play is an important part of learning, and it will also give your kitten an outlet for its energy. Your kitten may sometimes be rough when they play, and may bite, scratch, or kick the person it is playing with. It is used to interacting this way with its littermates, whose fur prevents them from getting hurt. The best way to eliminate this behaviour is to remain calm, firmly tell the kitten no, and end playtime by removing yourself from the situation. Always supervise children and other animals when they play with your kitten to reduce the risk of injury.
The toys you give your kitten should be lightweight and safe. They do not need to be expensive or complicated. Your kitten will make great use of wads of paper, tin foil, and even pom poms as playthings. Toys with small or detachable parts, like plastic eyes, should not be given to kittens as they present a choking hazard. Similarly, rubber bands, string, and elastic can be dangerous if ingested, so it’s important to supervise your kitten while it plays.
Can I discipline my kitten?
Disciplining your kitten may be necessary if its actions are dangerous or undesirable, but harsh forms of punishment should be avoided.
Remote punishment is the most effective method when disciplining a kitten or cat. This type of punishment interrupts the unwanted behaviour using something that doesn’t appear to be connected to you, such as spraying the kitten with water. The kitten will then associate the punishment with its behaviour instead of associating it with you. Clapping your hands together or blowing a whistle will often be enough to inhibit unwanted behaviours.
When should my kitten be vaccinated?
The antibodies a kitten receives through its mother’s milk form a temporary immunity against dangerous diseases and infections. This protects the kitten during its first few weeks of life, but becomes less effective as it grows. Vaccinations stimulate the kitten’s immune system so that it can form a more permanent immunity to diseases.
To ensure the efficacy of vaccines, they are administered as a schedule of injections over the lifespan of the kitten. Ideally, its initial vaccinations will be administered when it is 6 to 8 weeks old, followed by a booster vaccine at 12 weeks old, and a third at 16 weeks old. As an adult, your cat will receive a booster vaccination every 12 months to protect them for life which includes a health check.
The vaccinations your kitten will receive fall into one of two categories: core, and non-core. Core vaccines are those which every cat must receive, and non-core vaccinations are given depending on your cat’s environment and lifestyle.
Your kitten’s core vaccinations will protect it against feline parvovirus, feline calicivirus, and feline herpesvirus. Depending on your cats level of outdoor activity we will discuss other diseases we can vaccinate for.
Why does my kitten need more than one vaccination?
Your kitten’s ability to respond effectively to vaccines is influenced by a variety of factors. For example, if the antibodies it received from its mother’s milk are still present, they will neutralize the vaccine before it is able to work. It is impossible to determine exactly when the kitten will lose these antibodies, so a single vaccination is unlikely to provide long-term immunity.
It is optimal that at least two of these vaccines are administered after the kitten loses these antibodies and before they are exposed to disease. A full course of vaccinations in kittenhood and then annually as an adult ensures the best possible protection for your cat.
Do all kittens have worms?
Intestinal parasites, or worms, are quite common in kittens. In fact, they can become infested with internal parasites soon after birth. Roundworms, hookworms, and tapeworms are the most common intestinal parasites found in kittens. Roundworms can be transmitted to the kitten through its mother’s milk, and tapeworms can be caught if your kitten accidentally ingests a flea while they are grooming. Intestinal parasites can also be transmitted through eggs which are shed from other infested animals. These eggs are microscopic and can be picked up in soil, carpets, and other surfaces around the home. Although they are hard to see, the presence of internal parasites can be detected by testing a stool sample.
We recommend using a broad spectrum allwormer product designed for cats and kittens. You can administer this medication, usually a tablet or a paste, every 2 weeks until the kitten is 12 weeks of age, and then monthly until 6 months of age. We recommend periodic deworming every 3 months for optimal protection throughout the life of your cat.
There are lots of choices of cat foods. What should I feed my kitten?
A healthy diet is vital to the growth and development of your kitten. It is very important that kitten’s and cat’s eat food made for kitten’s and cat’s otherwise your cat can develop a deficiency in certain vitamins and minerals only they require. We recommend feeding a good quality dry food, manufactured by a reputable cat food company. We do not recommend using generic brands. From 12 months of age, they can be given a food that is formulated for adult cats or after they have been desexed.
Dry, tinned, and semi-moist diets all have their advantages and disadvantages. Dry food is the most cost-effective, and chewing biscuits helps to keep your kitten’s teeth clean and strong. We recommend feeding a dry food which is formulated to prevent urinary tract disease and is rich in omega-3 fatty acids to benefit your cat’s skin, coat, and joints. The main ingredient in the dry food should be meat, with a lower percentage of added grains and vegetables.
Some cats may find semi moist or tinned food more palatable. There are many nutritious varieties available, but semi moist and tinned foods can be more costly. Cats who prefer moist food should also be given a preventative dental product, such as Greenies or dental chews, to keep their teeth clean and healthy.
How do I ensure that my kitten is well socialised?
A kitten’s peak socialisation period begins at 2 weeks old, and tapers at around 12 weeks old. During this stage, your kitten will be forming strong impressions which are influenced by its social experiences. For example, if the kitten has a positive interaction with a dog during this time, it will be far more likely to feel comfortable around dogs when it’s older. However, if this experience is unpleasant, it can develop a fear that may last for the rest of its life.
During this important socialization period, you should expose your kitten to as many social interactions as possible in a calm and safe environment.
What can be done to prevent paralysis tick?
Here on the Central Coast we have a nasty parasite called the paralysis tick it is the single most dangerous parasite for dogs and cats in Australia. Your cat may pick up ticks as they brush through long grass or bushes. After attachment and feeding it starts producing a potent toxin that effects the cat’s nervous system and causes progressive paralysis and possible death. We can treat cats presenting with tick paralysis however it is a costly treatment and depending on how serious the signs your cat may not survive. Check your cat regularly and if you find a tick remove it using fingernails, tweezers or a tick removing device. The longer it stays attached the greater the chance for paralysis. However, tick prevention is key and there is effective tick prevention available which is a topspot applied every 3 months for kitten’s and cat’s.
What can be done about fleas on my kitten?
Fleas are a common problem in kittens, and it’s important to eradicate them before they infest your home or damage your kitten’s health. There are many flea treatments on the market, and we recommend Revolution, Advantage, and Frontline Top Spot for cats and kittens.
These flea drops are applied once monthly to the skin at the base of the kitten’s neck to both treat and prevent flea infestations. It is important to apply the drops in a place that the kitten cannot reach to lick them off.
It is important to ensure that the product you use is labelled as safe for kittens.
Can I trim my kitten’s sharp toenails?
Your kitten’s sharp claws can be gently clipped using your regular nail clippers, or clippers designed for cats and dogs. Be careful not to clip the nail too short or you will cut into the quick, the sensitive area of nerves and blood vessels at the base of the nail. If this happens, the nail will begin to bleed and cause your kitten pain. This may cause it to become fearful of having its nails clipped in the future.
Here are a few tips for safely clipping your kitten’s claws:
- You will be able to see the pink quick inside if the nail is transparent or white. Trim the nail slowly and carefully so as to avoid hitting the quick.
- If your kitten has dark nails and you cannot see the quick, slowly trim only 1 mm of the nail at a time.
- Only use clean, sharp clippers to trim your kitten’s nails. Dull clippers will crush the nail and cause your kitten pain.
- Keep styptic powder on hand to stop any bleeding that may occur. This powder is sold under several different trade names, and can be purchased from pet stores.
What are ear mites?
Ear mites are minuscule parasites that can infest the ear canals of cats and dogs. They are common in litters of kittens, and are transmitted through casual contact. Although a single mite is too small to be seen by the naked eye, we can detect them using an otoscope during an ear examination. The most common symptoms of an ear mite infestation include; scratching at the ears; shaking of the head; and a dark, waxy substance in the outer ear.
Although ear mites can affect any cat or dog, they are most common in kittens and outdoor cats. An infestation can lead to the development of painful skin infections, and intense scratching can cause the blood vessels of the ear to rupture.
Ear mites can be treated with medication prescribed by your veterinarian, and should be treated as soon as possible to avoid complications.
Why should I have my cat desexed?
Desexing your cat offers several important behavioural and health advantages. It can prevent females from entering a heat cycle and becoming pregnant, and stop males from spraying. Desexing reduces the risk of your cat developing diseases like cancer, and eliminates the risk of dangerous health conditions like pyometra.
When a female cat is spayed, her uterus and ovaries are surgically removed. This eliminates the risk of her becoming pregnant, and permanently ends her heat cycles and associated behaviour. We strongly recommend that female cats are spayed before their first heat, which can happen as early as five months old.
Castrating a male cat is a quick procedure to remove the testicles. When male cats mature, they can undergo a significant, and often negative, personality change. This change is often associated with undesirable behaviours, such as spraying, fighting, and wandering from home to find a mate. When a tomcat sprays, his urine gives off a very strong odor that often attracts other tomcats to mark over it. This odor is almost impossible to remove from your house. Castration can prevent and stop these behaviours. We urge you to have your male cat castrated at 6 to 9 months of age, and even sooner if he begins to spray.
Does my cat need to be microchipped?
Yes, under NSW law all kittens are required to be microchipped by the time they are 6 months old.
During the microchipping process, a tiny chip is implanted under the cat’s skin with a needle. This procedure is very fast, and can be performed in a regular consult. Each microchip is assigned an individual number which will display on a microchip reader when it is scanned. This number links to an entry in the microchip registry which contains your details so that you can be contacted when your cat is found. Vet clinics and animal rescue shelters across the country are able to scan pets with a device to obtain their microchip numbers. Once your is 6 months you need to take your desexing certificate and microchip paperwork to Council to organise Council Registration.
Microchipped cats are far more likely to be reunited with their families if they are to become lost.
How should I introduce my new kitten to my other cat?
It is very common for other cats in your household to be hostile towards a new kitten at first. Your cat may already feel territorial or jealous, so it is important that they do not feel that they need to compete for resources or attention. To prevent this, each cat should have their own separate food bowl and litter box. It is generally recommended that you supply one litter box per cat plus one extra for the household.
During the first few days, let your cat sit outside the door of the room that the kitten is confined to. This will help them get used to each other’s scent. Consider bringing your cat into the room for a few short supervised visits, making sure you pay equal attention to them both.
Kittens need a lot of love and care as they grow and this extra attention may make your cat feel excluded. Paying the cat more attention than normal will help to ease them through this transition period and help them learn to accept the new kitten. This introductory period will usually last for one to two weeks and will result in one of three outcomes.
- Optimally, the cat and your new kitten will form a bond. Once they feel comfortable they will play together and groom each other. They may even cuddle up and sleep near each other. Forming a bond is a more likely outcome if the cats did not feel the need to compete for resources or attention during the introductory period.
- The existing cat will become more tolerant of the kitten and its hostility will cease. If they do not bond, the existing cat is likely to go on as normal and will simply ignore the kitten. This is more common if your cat is extremely independent or has been an only cat for a long period of time, and is likely to be permanent.
- Finally, hostility may remain between your cat and the new kitten. They may occasionally fight, and they are unlikely to enjoy spending time near each other. You may need to give each cat its own area in the house. This outcome is very unlikely to occur if the cats do not need to compete for resources or attention during the introductory period.